1994 Supperclub.tube Review: A Cultural Journey on the Victoria Line

This article was written by Luxury Hospitality Mag. Click here to read the original article

By Sophie Weir, Senior Editorial Assistant, Luxury Hospitality Magazine

Walthamstow is known for many treasures, home to Europe’s longest outdoor street market, the iconic neon art gallery God’s Own Junkyard, and the artistic landmark of the William Morris Gallery and his influential designs.

Within its rising creative scene, Walthamstow has become a hub for niches, creatives, and an emerging cultural hotspot. With this follows the creation of supperclub.tube.

The social dining experience opened in 2018, welcoming almost 11,000 guests on board, joining Head Chef Beatriz Maldonado (Bea) and her team in a journey of gastronomy inspired by Latin American cuisine, from Mexico to Patagonia. For three nights a week (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday), the tube carriage transforms into a sensory dining location celebrating a rich heritage, diverse ingredients and innovative culinary techniques.

Chef Bea, © Sam Rockman

Growing up in Bogotá, Colombia, Bea was always surrounded by food as her grandparents would frequently bring home exotic ingredients, resonating with the modern-day culinary term ‘foodies’. This exposed her to culinary magnificence at a young age where her love for food stemmed from childhood memories. This sparked a career choice for Bea, and following university she began to train at the American Culinary Institute. She then moved her training to Argentina, taught by those who were influenced by French chef Paul Bocuse, heavily inspired by European techniques.

Having worked in Argentina and then Chile, Bea returned to Colombia working under head chef Virgilio Martinez in the successful Peruvian restaurant by chef Gaston Acurio, Astrid y Gaston. With enough experience following the opening of her own restaurant, gaining a diploma in kitchen management and maintaining her expertise as both a culinary and pastry chef, Bea transitioned to running a supper club, first in Highams Park and Soho, to then finally join the supperclub.tube.

Supperclub.tube really feels like you are entering into another universe of history and gastronomy, where industrial heritage meets understated luxury. Situated within the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum, a Grade II-listed Victorian building, you are transported to a vital part of London’s industrial past. Filled with vintage locomotives and historical machinery, the location very much compliments the dining experience itself. Stepping into this hollowed industrial ground lends a specific type of authenticity of which no purpose-built restaurant could replicate.

The unique dining venue is housed within a decommissioned 1967 Victoria Line tube carriage, carefully stationed amidst the museum’s outdoor exhibits, creating an immersive experience with a touch of exclusivity. With such a juxtaposition between white linens and polished glassware against a rugged backdrop of heavy iron, dining here feels as though you are part of a living exhibition.

Crossing the threshold diners enter through the drivers compartment of the vintage carriage, welcomed into a uniquely repurposed space. Coats are hung on the upper rails of the carriage and a complimentary drink is offered upon arrival as part of the booking; guests can choose between the Peachy Paloma, a refreshing blend of tequila, grapefruit and lime, or a timeless Negroni, a classic mix of gin, Campari and vermouth. There is also the classic option of Vodka or Rum with a Mixer or Gin and Tonic.

Chef Bea has curated a six-course seasonal tasting menu for guests to enjoy, explaining the origins of each dish and what they mean to the country they originate from. The tasting menu reflects Chef Bea’s commitment to local British produce, whilst honouring the vibrancy of her Latin American roots, carefully narrating a story of culture, history and creativity.

The experience begins with Tamal de Muerto (a blue corn dumpling with sweetcorn, butternut squash salsa, guajillo sauce and lancashire cheese), a dish steeped in ancient Mexican culture. Bea explained that blue corn is a nod to the Mayan creation myth of which humans we crafted from corn; a reminder of the sacred role this ingredient plays in Latin American cuisine. Wrapped in corn husks, the tamal’s earthy yet soft texture blends perfectly with a subtle sweetness, an homage to Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) traditions from the Mexican state of Querétaro. Bea explained that almost every country throughout Latin America and the Caribbean has its own version of tamal, however it is believed that the dish was first made by ancient indigenous cultures of Mexico.

Next, the menu pays tribute to Colombia with Pan de bono con chorizo, featuring cassava and corn starch bread, smoky pak choi, chorizo (or a vegetarian chorizo option), and pickled red onion. The dish is a culinary legacy of Hacienda El Bono in southwestern Colombia. This sweet, sticky dough, resembling a dumpling over bread, is paired with smoky Swiss chard for a delicate balance of flavours. Presented simply yet beautiful, Bea encapsulates each dish with a perfect balance between taste and heritage.

Here, the menu changes slightly for vegetarian and vegan guests, however Bea maintained a similar dining experience by serving the same dishes just with different regional takes. Every country in Latin America’s Pacific coast has its own version of a ceviche, and we were lucky enough to try two kinds. The Ceviche Nikkei de atun for meaty guests featured tuna, spring onion, crispy quinoa, tamarind and soya sauce ponzu alongside chipotle mayonnaise, a classic take on the fish-orientated Peruvian traditional dish.

Contrastingly, the vegetarian and vegan option was uniquely crafted without fish, a twist which takes you high into the Ecuadorian Andes. Ecuador is one of the only countries which counts a non-fish ceviche amongst the classics. This Ceviche de chocos was curated from lupin beans (due to being wildly available in the region), marinated in a fiery rocoto chilli sauce and combined with palm hearts, samphire, and courgette. Bea described this dish as rooted in Riobamba’s cold, rainy highland climate, offering an explosion of texture and taste.

The fourth course features the Columbian dish Ajiaco, corn fed chicken breast (or mushroom for a vegetarian and vegan option), yellow corn, capers, dauphinoise potatoes, avocado, and guasca sauce inspired by Bea’s favourite lunch at her grandparents’ house. With an elegant take on the hearty dish, Bea ties the menu together with nostalgic flavours and refined presentation.

The menu continues with a pre-dessert, a mora berry ice dome with white chocolate soil to refresh the palette. The mora berry is a type of blackberry native to the Latin American Andes. Brazilian style churros finish the six-course menu distinguished by their dulce de leche filling, a rich creamy caramel sauce surrounded by a soft chocolate sponge crisped on the exterior, accompanied by passionfruit and mango sorbet. The churros were the standout for us, melting with each bite, balancing a golden exterior with a pillowy and indulgent centre. The churros serve as a perfect conclusion to the menu’s culinary celebration of Spanish heritage across Latin America.

Throughout the meal, the evolving dishes showcase a mosaic of Latin American influences, whilst maintaining their focus on modern refinement, keeping its Latin flair whilst utilising seasonal British produce. As one of London’s most unique dining experiences, Chef Bea continuously brings new flavours to her seasonal menu. The experience functions as a dining social club with a brand-new meaning, transforming a regular meal out!

Get on board and find out more about the supperclub.tube here.

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