BABA on Withers’ story began in 2014 in Fort Greene with Baba Cool, a day-to-night cafe that captured the neighborhood’s spirit. The owner, Gabriella Mann, has a background in bartending and a love for socializing, and saw the potential for something more. This led to the creation of BABA on Withers, a space that embodies the energy of the night while retaining the warmth and hospitality that defined the original cafe.
This location opened in 2021 as another iteration of Baba Cool, but underwent a makeover to become BABA on Withers, relaunching in November of 2024. The bar’s winter vestibule opens up into a light-and-airy during the day but warmly-lit-and-cozy at night interior with a back patio featuring low-top wooden tables and chairs, string lights, a fireplace, and a disco ball.
“I think when I was opening up the Williamsburg location, I did the same concept that we did in Fort Greene because it was like what felt safe and what I knew,” Mann said.“But my first job in hospitality was as a bartender, and I’ve always felt more comfortable at night. And I think that this area specifically in Williamsburg was kind of missing that wine bar, but that being said, I also didn’t want to pigeonhole us into just a wine bar.”
The menu features Marseille-inspired French dishes, like this Duck Leg Confit with fairytale eggplant puree and sauce à l’orange. Photo credit: Justin Wilde
The menu features Marseille-inspired French dishes, like this Duck Leg Confit with fairytale eggplant puree and sauce à l’orange. Photo credit: Justin Wilde
And she’s right — BABA isn’t just about the wine; it’s about creating a space where everyone feels comfortable, whether they’re seasoned wine enthusiasts or simply looking for a fun night (or boozy brunch) out. The cuisine is inspired by Mann’s grandmother, who’s French, but that’s not where the familial ties end. Baba cool is French for “hippie,” but Mann notes that “Baba” means something different in many languages, like “grandmother” in many Slavic languages and “father” in many languages derived from Arabic. The importance of family doesn’t stop at the name, but is carried in what BABA offers.
“I grew up in a home where drinking wine, hanging out, and being social were definitely things that were important to my family,” Mann said. “I think that’s definitely had some influence on how I eat and what I put out at my restaurants. My mom was always cooking really good food, and her mom was doing the same. And I mean, I think similarly on my dad’s side, his mom was always kind of like cooking good food and whatnot. Memories always come from food.”
While BABA offers beers and cocktails, like the “Hardly Working” and the “Low Key Romantic,” the wine is the main focus, with a carefully curated list that offers a range of options, from easy-drinking bottles to more complex and thought-provoking selections. Mann values working with producers who share her commitment to quality and craftsmanship, such as Café Integral’s wine company, Barbichette, whose kegged wine offers an accessible price point without compromising on quality.
“I’m constantly meeting with different distributors who are bringing different producers’ wines around… I think it’s good to have wines that complement each other,” she said.“You know, some things that are just chuggable and people want to get bottle after bottle, and then wines that maybe are keeping you thinking a little, and maybe you just want to have one glass because it’s interesting, and you’re glad you tried it.”
BABA on Withers focuses on natural wines, but also features cocktails like the “Low Key Romantic,” with ginger-infused Haku vodka, Forthave yellow, dry vermouth, rose, lime, soda water. Photo credit: Justin Wilde
BABA on Withers focuses on natural wines, but also features cocktails like the “Low Key Romantic,” with ginger-infused Haku vodka, Forthave yellow, dry vermouth, rose, lime, soda water. Photo credit: Justin Wilde
While the Fort Greene location has a more family-oriented vibe, BABA in Williamsburg caters to a crowd that’s ready to celebrate and have a good time. Mann emphasizes the importance of a welcoming atmosphere, noting that the team is passionate about engaging with customers and making them feel at home. This focus on human connection is a crucial element of the BABA experience, with open decks night featuring local DJs every second and fourth Thursday from 8 p.m. til late, and BABA Afters, a billed DJ set every Friday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m.
The journey from one location to two has been a learning experience, requiring Mann to delegate and empower others to bring her vision to life. The success of both locations, each with its own distinct vibe, speaks to her ability to create unique and compelling spaces. And while a third concept is always on the horizon, the focus remains on maintaining the authenticity and passion that define BABA.
