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Uncorked: Nikos Emner

  • Joe Lutrario
  • 29 August 2024
  • 3 minute read
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This article was written by Restaurant Online Magazine. Click here to read the original article

image

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine​

A few years ago, I received a call from a friend inviting me to join him at the Elounda Palm Hotel, a boutique family-run establishment in Elounda. Taking up this opportunity, I became part of the team there and began to delve deeper into the world of wine. What truly sparked my excitement and passion was learning about sensory evaluation. The ability to discern intricate details about a wine simply through smelling and tasting it was both thrilling and fascinating. 

Describe your wine list at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal​

Our wine list boasts approximately 900 different wines, sure to excite any wine enthusiast. The list features many rare and highly sought-after wines. Some of my personal favourites include the 1990 Echezeaux from Henri Jayer, the 2004 La Tâche from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and old vintages from Roumier and Rousseau. But our selection is not limited to rare and premium wines; it spans a diverse range from all over the world, showcasing hidden gems with a significant emphasis on sustainable and low-intervention wines. 

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters? ​

I once watched a colleague drop a bottle of Chambertin 2011 Rousseau, worth £10,000, in the cellar. The bottle ended up changing shelves three times before finally stopping on the last one before hitting the floor. I stood there frozen, watching it all unfold but I’m happy to say it did not break. 

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Name your top three restaurant wine lists​

Trivet, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and Da Terra (all in London). 

Who do you most respect in the wine world​

I have great respect for Giannis Karakasis, a Master of Wine and a true ambassador for Greek wines. Through his various projects, he tirelessly promotes Greek wines, helping to elevate their status and recognition on the global stage.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently? ​

Given the vast array of incredible wines I get to try that is a tough question. The wine world is becoming increasingly competitive, with more and more amazing wines emerging. If I had to pick one, it would be Lukas Strobl’s Hengstberg Pinot Noir. I absolutely love it.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?​

Purity, citrus notes and refreshing acidity. 

What is your ultimate food and drink match? ​

Oysters and gin and tonic. 

Old World or New World​

I often compare Old World wines to classical music. They are consistent, deeply rooted in history, and thrive by honouring tradition while embracing the present. On the other hand, New World wines remind me of rock ‘n’ roll—bold, intense, and boundary-breaking. Nowadays, we see both worlds influencing each other, with unique offerings emerging from every corner of the globe. My answer is both!

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment? ​

The Blanc de Gris from Tselepos (in Greece). This incredibly fragrant wine showcases the indigenous Moschofilero variety at its best, due to the meticulous work of Aris Tselepos. It offers great value and pairs wonderfully with a variety of dishes, making it a standout choice for both novice and seasoned wine lovers.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants? ​

I am obsessed with glassware. While I am generally easy-going about wine service, I firmly believe that restaurants should invest in high-quality glassware.

Who is your favourite producer right now? ​

I do not have a single favourite producer, but I greatly admire Ken Wright from Oregon. Meeting him left a lasting impression on me due to his passion for viticulture and the way he speaks about his vines. His Pinot Noirs beautifully reflect his strong personality.

As an assistant director of wine what question do you most get asked by customers?  ​

Guests often ask about investing in wines and how much I spend on a bottle of wine in my personal life.

Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?  ​

Oregon is currently an underrated wine producing region. During a recent trip there, I was delighted to discover many incredible wines. One of the best aspects of this region is the strong sense of community among the producers, who collectively promote their wines.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why? ​

I would choose a bottle of Domaine d’Auvenay Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Finding this wine is like finding a needle in a haystack. Domaine d’Auvenay, a small Burgundian estate in Saint-Romain and part of the Leroy empire, produces this exceptional wine. I had the chance to try it once, and even just a few sips were a true experience. For any lover of white Burgundy, this is the dream wine.

Please click here to access the full original article.

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