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Former Freemasons at Wiswell chef Steven Smith to launch ambitious three-in-one Manchester restaurant

  • Joe Lutrario
  • 4 October 2024
  • 2 minute read
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This article was written by Restaurant Online Magazine. Click here to read the original article

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On Bridge Street in the space that was most recently home to Musu – which closed temporarily this August – KAJI by MUSU takes its name from the Japanese word for flame and invites guests ‘to embark on a unique journey where fire and flavour come together in perfect harmony’. 

Smith’s appointment to lead the project follows the departure of chef patron Michael Shaw, who launched the high-end Japanese restaurant in 2022 for a group of unnamed backers​​. 

The sharing concept will be largely Japanese-inspired offering a range of sushi and sashimi in both classic and contemporary styles alongside a wide selection of small plates that includes XL Orkney scallop baked in the shell with sea urchin butter; koji-aged Herdwick lamb rack with grilled lettuce and red vinegar sauce; and slow-cooked boneless sticky chicken wings with Thai green mousse and katsu curry sauce.  

Expected to launch on 18 October, the 54-cover ground floor restaurant will also offer a tasting menu for £120 and a £30 lunch and early evening menu. 

Next year, KAJI by MUSU will be joined by two further concepts in the site’s newly-acquired basement: ‘super high-end’ 18-cover kitchen counter concept called MUSU Miyabi overseen by Smith and a 12-cover omakase concept called MUSU Theatre of Omakase headed by experienced sushi chef Andre Aguiar.

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According to MUSU’s representatives the changes – which will see the operation as a whole rebranded to MUSU Collection – are in response to the original MUSU concept winning three AA Rosettes.

“This is a fantastic opportunity to launch a city centre restaurant that’s right in the thick of it,” says Smith, who is leading the whole project supported by a group of unnamed backers.

“I’ll still be using a lot of techniques that I used at Freemasons at Wiswell and the best of British produce. We have always worked with world flavours but are now focusing on Asian flavours because I believe them to be better suited to a city centre location and a restaurant concept that’s about rocking some super tasty food and having some fun.” 

Smith left the Freemasons at Wiswell after 15 years as chef patron earlier this year. ​​

Under Smith’s tenure the Ribble Valley pub has been a fixture on the Top 50 Gastopubs list, placing as high as number three in 2020. It has also appeared within Restaurant’s list of the top 100 places to eat in the UK.

A representative for the Freemasons at Wiswell confirmed Smith’s departure and said that the kitchen would continue to be led by head chef Matt Smith, who returned to the venue two years’ ago after a brief spell away.

Speaking to Restaurant at the time, Smith said his time at the pub restaurant had “naturally come to an end” and that he was hoping to launch a new venture in the area.

Please click here to access the full original article.

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