The Compton Arms has long been known for nurturing some of London’s most promising chef talent. Past residencies include Four Legs, who went on to open The Plimsoll and Tollingtons, and rustic Italian kitchen, Tiella closing in December.
The Compton Arms are thrilled to announce that Rake will take over the kitchen for a long term residency from 9th January. Following a short incubation period at The Compton’s sister pub, The Gun in Hackney, Rake will move to the much-coveted kitchen in 2025.
Rake is operated by three chefs with a combined 30 years in the industry. The concept is a creative culmination of experience in establishments such as Quo Vadis, BRAT and Acme Fire Cult. Jay Claus, Syrus Pickhaver and Peter Ward trained and worked under some of the UK’s most celebrated chefs, from Jeremy Lee, Marianna Leivaditaki to Ben Tunnicliffe.
The trio return to the fundamentals of their training, and to the food they are so fond of. Rake serves largely unfeigned, restorative fare, giving due respect to British cookery. The focus, among other produce, is on whole beast butchery and sustainable Cornish fish.
The regularly changing menu reflects Rake’s core values; the quality and seasonality of produce with minimal fuss and skilled technique. Expect both classic, and long forgotten British recipes revitalised and modernised, like the crisp, moreish Beer battered cockles and clams. Oysters come baked rarebit style or as Oysters Kilpatrick with lardo, spiced tomato, horseradish and Worcestershire sauce. The peppery Cumberland spiced lardo is quite simply, otherworldly. Rake has revolutionised the classic beef and ale pie; braised squid replaces the meat and is topped with whipped potato. Delicately steamed crab claw comes with a laverbread and bacon Béarnaise for dipping. A dish of Salsify with warming Scotch broth works with the seasons. The hearty Beef ribeye with homemade onion rings serves two, and absolutely cannot be enjoyed without Rake’s legendary chips.
The Compton Arms location in Highbury attracts Arsenal fans on match days. On game days throughout the year, Rake offers their take on the hotdog. Featuring a Cumberland sausage in a potato roll with a French dip gravy and English mustard for dunking.
Rake have become known for their Sunday roasts which are to continue at The Compton Arms. Roast meats and vegetable Stargazey pies are served with classic sides; Yorkshire puddings, roast potatoes, leek gratin and collard greens.
The desserts are solid British classics. Choose from Treacle tart with clotted cream, St Emilion (chocolate) tart or a selection of cheeses. The Deep fried summer berry pie is a family affair featuring blackberries foraged from Syrus’ mum’s garden.
The Compton Arms happened to be George Orwell’s favourite pub; we think he’d approve…