What: Hot Dogs by Three Darlings is a 25-seat gourmet hot dog concession in Harrods Dining Hall that has taken over some of the space previously occupied by Sushi by Masa, which has been reduced in size by around 50%. Taking inspiration from all over the world, it offers five hot dogs alongside an even tighter selection of supporting menu items and drinks. It’s one of a number of new concepts looking to breath life into the restaurant hot dog category which, despite a flurry of hopefuls launching a decade or so ago, has never really taken off on these shores.
Who: It is the first of a series of launches from Jason Atherton’s The Social Company. The high-profile chef relaunched his former flagship Pollen Street Social as Mary’s just last week and will open a further three new restaurants before the year is out including neighbourhood venture Three Darlings on Chelsea’s buzzy Pavilion Road to which this atypically casual project alludes (the site is only a short stroll from Harrods). Much of the R&D for Hot Dogs by Three Darlings has been undertaken by former The Ritz chef Spencer Metzger who joined The Social Company a year or so ago and was instrumental in Atherton’s Row on 45 restaurant in Dubai going straight to two Michelin stars earlier this summer. The rest of the team is largely made up of existing The Social Company employees, including some from Harrods Social, which closed earlier this year. Hot Dogs by Three Darlings is a concession, with staff employed by Atherton rather than Harrods (as is the case at some of the other chef-led concepts within the space).
The food: Given his status as one of the UK’s most exciting young chefs, Metzger could be forgiven for considering the humble hot dog as being beneath him. But the chef has thrown himself into the project and speaks about it with the same levels of enthusiasm as his and Atherton’s upcoming Row on 5 restaurant in Mayfair, which he will soon be working on full time. Made by butcher Aubrey Allen to bespoke recipes (each of the five sausages is different), the hot dogs are grilled in Harrods’ subterranean production kitchen before going upstairs to be held ready for service in an umami stock at 80 degrees. They are then placed in rolls and briefly cooked in a Merrychef high-speed oven – the type used by Subway – before being topped. The toppings and the dogs themselves are inspired by global destinations with options including the Souk’ Dog (made with lamb topped with harissa, sour red onion, tahini yoghurt and coriander); and The Texican Flesty ’n’ Fiery (beef sausage with guacamole, salsa with jalapeño, squeezy cheese, chipotle mayonnaise and crunchy tortilla chips). Prices range from £16 to £22, although it is possible to spend an eye-watering £52 on a single hot dog by adding a grating of truffle to the Battersea Banger hot dog which was designed in partnership with model David Gandy. Hot Dogs by Three Darlings certainly isn’t cheap but it can’t be accused of being a cynical cash grab either given the amount of work that has gone into the project and the high standards in the kitchen. Besides, does anyone really buy anything at Harrods thinking they’re going to come away with a bargain?
To drink: A tight selection of wine and beer is on offer alongside a single cocktail, a classic Martini. Alongside this are two shakes (strawberry and matcha; and cookies and cream).
The vibe: All the operators within Harrods Dining Hall have the same understated, classic look and subtle branding so as not to detract from the room’s historic interior. Overhauled by David Collins Studio a few years ago, the 200-cover space has an impressive (and Grade II-listed) has an ornate frieze displaying pastoral scenes and intricate tiling below.
And another thing: Understandably given how much work has gone into the concept, Metzger and Atherton are understood to be looking at further opportunities for it.
Harrods Dining Hall, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7X
www.harrods.com
