Macellaio RC invites you to share. One great steak, a few composed sides, and a glass of something red
By Sophie Weir, Senior Editorial Assistant, Luxury Hospitality Magazine.
Macellaio RC Soho brings understated brilliance to Soho with an Italian steakhouse that lets quality speak for itself.
In a city famous for its culinary theatrics, Macellaio RC Soho stands out for its rare clarity of purpose. It’s not about flash or spectacle; it’s about honouring meat with conviction and detail. The name translates to “butcher” in Italian, and everything about this restaurant revolves around the craft, ritual, and story of butchery – delivered with quiet confidence and a dash of theatre.
This is the latest outpost from Roberto Costa, a Genoese restaurateur who still refers to himself, humbly, as “a waiter.” His guiding principle is refreshingly direct: select exceptional ingredients, interfere as little as possible, and let them speak. That philosophy is felt from the moment you enter. The interiors strike a balance of rugged refinement—dark wood panels, dry-aged beef on display in glass-fronted fridges, and lighting that gently draws your focus to the plate. While it nods to the New York steakhouse, the soul is distinctly Italian.
An Italian soul with a steakhouse edge—the bar at Macellaio RC is stocked for slow sips and bold bites
We began with a glass of Cantine Silvestri Castelli Romani Rosso, a medium-bodied Lazio red made from Cesanese grapes. Bright cherry and soft tannins made it a thoughtful pairing for the opening plates: carpaccio di Fassona—thin slices of prized Piedmontese beef with rocket and Parmigiano—and an Italian charcuterie board featuring Rosa dell’Angelo prosciutto, Lardo di Colonnata, and silk-thin bresaola. A standout detail: the lard candle, lit at the table, its melting fat poured over house bread—a playful, textural flourish with purpose.
Ahead of our mains, a member of the team presented the raw board: a selection of steak cuts explained with detail and pride—origin, fat content, ageing, and flavour profile. The Tomahawk, a 900g Irish Wagyu, marbled and served on the bone, was unapologetically bold. The Fiorentina, a dry-aged Herefordshire T-bone, offered a balance of sirloin and fillet in one classic cut. There was also the Costata, delivering a deep ribeye flavour; the Revolver (Angus ribeye with bone marrow); two Fassona cuts (shoulder and dry-aged rib); and a richly marbled Wagyu Costata from the Wicklow Mountains.
Fiorentina (left) meets Tomahawk (right)—a study in contrast between fillet refinement and ribeye richness
What’s exceptional here is the sourcing. Every cut comes from carefully selected farmers—chosen for breed, quality, and sustainable practices. Fassona from North Genoa. Angus from Argentina. Wagyu from Ireland. Even halal options are offered, a quietly inclusive detail in a restaurant that could easily exclude.
We opted for the Tomahawk (rare) and the Fiorentina (medium-rare). Both were grilled over charcoal, flipped just once—a technique the team explained helps preserve the meat’s fat and structure. The Tomahawk arrived with primal presence—smoky, marbled, and melting within, with charred edges and deep, layered flavour. The Fiorentina was refined and balanced, where the tenderness of fillet met the richness of sirloin in a beautifully unified cut.
Grilling over charcoal, the Tomahawk cut takes centre stage. Fat crisps. Flavour deepens. Nothing superfluous
Sides were composed but never competing. Truffle and Parmesan chips brought crunch and umami. Broccoli, dusted in chilli, offered a bright and counterpointing assertive heat. Honey-roasted carrots also added gentle sweetness. Each supported the centrepiece rather than distracted from it.
Service throughout was informed and intuitive—relaxed but assured. Staff explained cuts and methodology with fluency, not formality, seemingly genuinely invested and proud of the story they were telling. That same pride was visible in the open butcher’s fridge, where meat ages in full view—nothing hidden, nothing embellished. The confidence here is grounded and understated, built on knowledge rather than performance.
From Costata to Carpaccio, the menu encourages exploration. But start with the Fiorentina—and bring company
What also stands out is the flexibility. Macellaio works just as well for a quick pre-theatre meal as it does for a long, indulgent dinner. You can come in for one perfect steak or share several. The pacing is sharp, the menu focused, the execution consistent. There’s no need for elaborate tasting menus. The restaurant knows what it does and sticks to it—with discipline, depth, and a sense of purpose.
Macellaio RC isn’t trying to revolutionise the steakhouse—it’s refining it. This is a restaurant for those who care about provenance, preparation, and the poetry of restraint. Fire, fat, and flavour are treated with reverence. Here, cooking returns to fundamentals: the right product, handled the right way, by people who know why that matters—from the transparent butchery to the precise ageing to the confident, minimalist presentation. It’s dining rooted in tradition, executed with modern clarity.
For more information or to book a table, please visit: Italian restaurant | Macellaio RC | London, UK | Soho
