What: The relaunch of The Goring hotel’s flagship restaurant. To the front of the hotel, The Dining Room has been given a complete makeover by Russell Sage Studio. Though the culinary concept has not changed at the Michelin-starred restaurant, the kitchen has also been overhauled – there’s now a six-seater chef’s table – and the dining experience has been ‘revived’.
Who: The project has been led by CEO Jeremy Goring, the great grandson of the hotel’s founder Otto R. Goring. He took the reins of the Beeston Place hotel in 2005 having attended the prestigious Lausanne Hotel School in Switzerland and cut his teeth at a number of other five-star hotels including the Four Seasons and The Lanesborough in London and the Rosewood in Mexico, the Caribbean and Indonesia. The kitchen at The Dining Room has been headed by executive chef Graham Squire since 2019. With a CV that includes Claridge’s, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Trinity and a stint running The Lickfold Inn in West Sussex, he has retained the Michelin star the restaurant won in 2016 while under the direction of Shay Cooper.
The food: As you’d expect given The Goring is one of the capital’s more traditionalist luxury hotels, Squire plays it safe for the most part with a menu that’s largely made up of tried-and-tested ingredient and flavour combinations. Starters include roast Orkney scallop with English pea, lemon verbena and nut-brown butter; stuffed morel, baked truffle cream, mushroom, chicken skin and maple gel; and eggs Drumkilbo, a luxe take on a prawn cocktail made with lobster, chopped egg and sherry jelly that was apparently one of the Queen Mother’s favourite dishes. Main courses include Dover sole, globe artichoke in barigoule, warm tartare sauce and crispy beer batter; and Rhug Estate lamb with hot pot pie, lamb fat carrot, pickles and BBQ gem relish. Extra interest is added by way of a number of items that are dexterously served tableside, including Champagne cocktails, beef Wellington, stuffed turbot and rum baba flambé. A dedicated vegetarian and vegan menu is also offered. Starters average out at about £25 and mains start at £42. Unusually for a hotel of The Goring’s level, there’s also a pre theatre menu charged at £80 for three courses.
To drink: Overseen by Lorenzo Tili – who was recently promoted to head sommelier – The Dining Room’s wine list has over 500 references. The selection is surprisingly eclectic given the hotel’s target market although those looking to splash out on something more classic won’t have any issues. By the glass prices start at £12 for still wines while The Goring’s house pour sparkling wine – Ayala Brut Majeur served from magnum – costs £24 (for 150ml rather than the more typical 125ml).
The vibe: Russell Sage has drawn inspiration from the interiors of London’s Royal palaces and grand residences to create a classic but rather striking space that offsets bold red furnishings against green wallpaper and matching green curtains. Other design details include chandeliers, an ornate ceiling with gold detailing, plush sofas and a painting that depicts four members of the Goring family pretending to be the Beatles.
And another thing: A favourite of the Royal Family – it’s only a few minutes’ walk away from Buckingham Palace and is the only hotel that has ever been granted a Royal Warrant – The Goring is notable for being the last remaining family-owned luxury hotel in London.
15 Beeston Place, London SW1W 0JW
www.thegoring.com
